anyone there?

this site is die'n out this year..... newman needs to start anouther cheating tread!!

NEWMAN!!!

No need to start a new thread about cheating. Everyone knows it exists in all the classes. Titianium valve train and stage 2 cams will make any mini stock super fast. If you weld some tabs on a header and put a heat shield over it, all of the sudden it turns into an exaust manifold. 110 octane fuel helps too. How do you police that? I spent a lot of money trying to be competitive and be within the rules and still some cars will blow my doors off. I started a thread before the season about a modified mini class. I think either two classes of minis or just open up the rules a little, in my opinion most of the cars would be considered modified anyway. Hope to be back for the 4th of July show. By the way good job Kasey Collier #18.

C. Rocket you are a fool.. Tabs on headers is hilarious... They checked exhaust manifolds a few weeks ago.. 110 octane fuel does nada without out a remapping of the ECU.. Fuel can be checked by checking its bouyancy. Titanium can be checked by looking or pulling the head. Cams can be checked by looking for an aftermarket stamp. If you talked to guys who are in the top five, you will learn a lot.. You don't have to throw your money away at a losing car if you know how to build the right one.. People who try to build up their motors like drag cars usually break a lot of parts.. I have the same engine, 3rd year in a row. Has not been refreshed and it performs. Check your set up and accelerate with the pedal on the right.

Pilatti, first off I respect you as a good driver so the fool comment i take lightly. And I agree adjust your car/ driving to get the most. And thats what I ment by saying I have spent a lot of time and money adjusting my car. My motor is bone stock 1.6l DOHC ZC Honda power. I have tried to move weight, adjust tire size, air pressure, etc. I do have a header because the stock exaust manifold that came with my motor dident have a down pipe. From the articals I have read this is of no help performance wise. The header is the same configeration as the stock piece. I would be more than happy to put the stock back on if I can find a down pipe ( it weighs about 25 lbs more and I need the weight). All I am saying is lets race and quit whining about cheaters. Other than the header, my stock CRX is pretty damn fast if I can keep it pointed in the right direction. Is there a way to check ECU reprograming? Not trying to stir up crap just expressing an opinion.

You can check ECU mods by opening up the computer and seeing if it has a piggy backing device.. which means they unsoldered the original chip and put a chip in that will allow another chip to be plugged into it. It would be way obvious. I keep all my weight exactly as the rules state. If you put it somewhere else, you are violating the rules. If your motor is fresh 30-50k miles you should be able to set your car up to win without a cam, with out any head work, especially with a ZC. I have seen it done. If your having problems with getting it in the right direction, PM me and I will tell you how to make your car turn. I was not calling you a fool to belittle you. I was just trying to say you were way off in the wrong direction. P.S. The header must flow better. And if I could find one that was stock on a special edition I would run it.. We look for any arrangement that will work the best. I would rather you beat me because your a better driver than I am. Not because you have a faster car with bigger upgrades. If you have questions, then ask. Most guy's will help if you just ask.

Ya, just ask.

I agree with you Pilatti I would rather beat you or anyone else because of my driving not because of a super cheated car. As far as my weight, it is all lead painted white with my car # on it. It is secured to my roll cage with 1/2" grade 8 bolts and roll bar clamps. I've been experimenting with the placement because my car only weighs 1870lbs with no driver,lead, or fuel. And yes I still need about 100lbs. The header might flow better but since it is the exact same configeration as the OEM 4-2-1 I dont think it would be much. I have talked to many of the top 5 cars some with good advise and some without. If I can get my wallet a little fatter I will see if the car is any better than the last race. Thanks for the offer to help Mike I might just take you up on that.

Hi all im new here and my wife is a rookie on the track. she has raced 3 times in a barrowed car. Well we got a new car that will be out there this coming sat. night. The car will be number 49. Its a 89 honda prelude. Im new at this so was wondering what is the best tire presure setup to run? I also have read about adjusting to toe to help it but not sure how that will work. any help for a rookie i will thanks you.

[quote="car49crewcheif"]Hi all im new here and my wife is a rookie on the track. she has raced 3 times in a barrowed car. Well we got a new car that will be out there this coming sat. night. The car will be number 49. Its a 89 honda prelude. Im new at this so was wondering what is the best tire presure setup to run? I also have read about adjusting to toe to help it but not sure how that will work. any help for a rookie i will thanks you.[/quot

Well, Take it for what it's worth. And keep in mind I don't know alot.....but I do know, be extra careful with your right front tire pressure. Very important. There is a very fine line there. Other than that, just gas on it, tell her to hold her line, and keep her eye's way ahead on the track. And most of all, smile

Toe out the front tires at minimum of 1/8 inch and play with it. Dependent on track conditions and how you feel with it. I have heard of guys running 32 lbs all the way around.. I always have a bit more pressure up front than in back. If your tire pressure is too low, like 20 lbs on your front right then your gonna roll the bead. The lower the pressure, the more bite, the higher the pressure equals more understeer. Track conditions change all night. The more seat time you gain, the easier it is to read your car.

The Definition of Understeer also known as "push", and "dammit, why won't the car turn.....
"Oversteer", AKA "loose", or "OH S*&T!",

Just some thoughts on set-up 20 pounds is too low on the right front (it went flat). I liked the feel of 28 on the right side and 25 on the left, but my car struggles with push (not wanting to turn). Tire size matters. I ran 60's first time out and the car was fast, but the motor was screaming. I ran 70's last time and the motor was happier but the car wasn't as fast. Tires need to be the same size all the way around (ask Nathan) but tire size is not the same with all manufacturers so you can find taller tires for the right side that have the same size markings on the tire. there are some guys that have played with camber on the right front (tough to do, cut and weld and illegal but not checked for, yet). Some guys have tried to shift the rear ends a little (a little nascar side bite).
Weight is also an area to address. I believe that the best recommendation is to get any extra weight as low as you can and as far to the left front that you can. my car is currently 100 pounds heavy (fat man in the car).
My car is toed out almost an inch, might be too much.

I believe that chips are getting modified and there are a lot of ways to do this. It is possible to give the computer what it wants to see without changing the chip. You modify the inputs rather than the chip. Some computers offer higher RPM's than others. (some years are better than other years) I also believe that you generally have to do something to keep the cars from shutting off when they get warm. My car is unique because the chips themselves are interchangeable. (chevy) I also have a car that has the most powerful chip with the highest RPM stock. In my case I rewired the entire car I didn't modify any of the inputs but I did eliminate what was not necessary. Even so I have a few electrical gremlins that have shown-up in my last race.

I think that something could be said about new struts and springs, but I haven't tried this (yet). The integras and preludes seem to ride a lot lower in the track. This is probably by manufacture design. Getting the car more stable and the tires more stuck to the ground can't be a bad thing.

Take some time, try some things, stay out of trouble and have fun.
Jeff

Everyone has good input on how to setup the cars but i think the most over looked part to racing the mini stock class is just to finish every race that is the hardiest part .... mini stocks ( aka ) survival of the fittest... you can have the fastest car on the track that out handles everyone but if you get hit too many times or you have been in two yellows your night is over...learn to drive on the track with the other cars first then the setup will be easy....... good luck and have fun

thanks for all the input guys. My wife has made the a main every time she races. however the last race right before the a main she had a left rear flat. when i changed the tire i noticed it was a 70 instead of a 60. they also wetted the track right before her race and she could not control the car and hit the wall. she was driving an integra now we have a 89 prelude which was set up for running in victorville. had to take the headers off as they are not legal here. also had to change the a-frame the controls the camber as the guy hit the wall and bent it so bad it had about 3" of negative camber. now it has about 1/2 inch negative camber on the left front. anyway thanks again for your help and take it easy on my wife as she is a rookie and just out there to have fun.

PMS RACING wrote:

The Definition of Understeer also known as "push", and "dammit, why won't the car turn.....
"Oversteer", AKA "loose", or "OH S*&T!",

hahahah sounds like something tim the tool man taylor would say